Alaska, Up Close and Personal
on Cruise West

I had been aboard the Spirit of Endeavour for only a couple of hours when a humpback whale interrupted my salmon dinner.

The 102-passenger expedition vessel had just left Juneau with a fresh boatload of guests, all eager to see the abundant wildlife of southeast Alaska during this weeklong, late May cruise. Smack in the middle of the main course, cries of "Ooooh!", "Wow!" and "Aaah!" crescendoed through the ship's dining room, shattering the polite getting-to-know-you conversation. Someone had spotted a plume of mist off the starboard side, signaling the presence of a humpback. Forks dropped and napkins fell to the floor as guests rose to catch the very first wildlife sighting of the cruise.

It lasted just a few moments, but it was a genuine thrill for those who caught it. Moments like this are typical when you sail with Cruise West, whose small and intimate vessels go where the larger mainstream cruise ships do not. Later that night during an orientation in the lounge, our onboard guides, known as exploration leaders, assured us that they would be on "whale watch" for the duration of the trip.

They also gave a preview of what the next few days would bring: a port call in Sitka, a visit to a tiny, isolated fishing community and a cruise through magnificent Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. Sightings of sea otters, bald eagles, black bears, brown bears, sea lions, harbor seals and more whales were highly possible. And, "we are also looking for some quiet moments in nature," guide Shay Makela reminded us before we turned in for the night.

By the time passengers awoke the next morning, the ship was making its way up Endicott Arm toward Dawes Glacier. Two-thousand-foot granite walls lined the passage, and chunks of ice speckled the glassy, moss-green water. Occasionally, we'd hear the thunk, thunk, thunk of ice brushing against the ship's hull.

There are some 100,000 glaciers in Alaska, and only about half are named. Dawes was one of several glaciers we'd cruise to on this itinerary, getting close but never within a quarter mile: "Shooters" of ice that break off a glacier and fall into the water during a calving can damage a vessel as they pop back to the surface. Thick, dirty lines snaked across the top of Dawes Glacier, as if someone had driven a four-wheel drive vehicle down its pale blue surface. These, we learned from our guides, were the moraines -- seams that show where two or more glaciers fused together.

We spent the morning in Endicott Arm enjoying a rare sunny Alaska day. Binoculars in hand, we spotted harbor seals lounging on ice floes, a black bear napping on a rocky outcropping and, high up on the cliff, a handful of mountain goats.

Humpback whales, too, made an appearance that day. I quickly learned to listen for the long, gentle "sigh" that whales make as they exhale water through their blowholes. I'd look toward the sound in time to see the whale's dorsal fin and back arcing through the water several times before the grand finale: a flip of the massive fluke, or tail. The captain stopped the boat whenever whales were sighted, lingering until everyone had a chance to take in the scene.

Cruise West passengers occasionally leave the vessel for closer inspection in a DIB, or Demaree Inflatable Boat. Each DIB holds 10 people, and passengers were assigned to DIB teams for the duration of the cruise. One day, we boarded our DIBs and motored to Kuiu Island for a 30-minute nature walk.

Here, amid the great stands of spruce, alder and hemlock, we learned the best way to spot a bald eagle: look high in the trees for the "golf ball" -- the eagle's bright white head. We popped pods of golden rockweed between our fingers and used the aloelike substance that emerged as a moisturizer, and we bounced on the spongy lichen that carpeted the forest floor. We examined the tiny limpets and purple-black mussels that covered boulders along the beach, and we found bleached clam shells that were as broad as our outstretched hands.

On the way to Kuiu, my DIB briefly idled offshore as we waited for another Endeavour DIB to clear the island's landing spot. We attracted the attention of a curious harbor seal that poked its head out of the water just behind our craft, studying us with big, soft, black eyes. Harbor seals are skittish and don't like noise, guide Makela had warned us. They are endearing, sweet creatures to behold.

But not so, the Steller sea lion. If harbor seals are the shy and retiring ones, then sea lions are their rowdy cousins. While cruising Frederick Sound on day three of the trip, we came upon a sea lion rookery. Dozens of sea lions brayed and barked with gusto, muscling each other out of the way for a spot on the rocks. We stayed here for a while and watched the antics of these big, lumbering beings.

Most of this Cruise West itinerary, which will be called "Alaska's Whales and Wilderness" next summer, is spent on the water, but there are a handful of port calls. Our first was Sitka. The town is a common stop for many Inside Passage cruises, but this would be the only time during the trip when we would rub elbows with those passengers who had disembarked from the megaships.

Located on the western shore of Baranof Island, Sitka served as the capital of Russian America from 1804 until 1867. Russian heritage remains strong, as does the influence of the Tlingit people. Endeavour passengers can join an included tour of Sitka National Historic Park, site of an early 19th-century battle between Russian colonists and Tlingit natives.

Otherwise, guests are free to explore Sitka on their own -- to perhaps visit St. Michael's Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox church, or shop for matryoshka, traditional Russian wooden nesting dolls -- or they can join a shore excursion for an additional fee. I opted to try sea kayaking.

There was a light drizzle when we suited up for our adventure, but, our guides assured us, it was a fine day for kayaking because there was no wind. We crewed two-person kayaks, and my partner for this outing was a gregarious retiree. Between the two of us, we had little to no paddling experience.

Yet the peaceful, easy, two-hour jaunt turned out to be a highlight of the trip for the both of us. We glided to the edge of a small island where, in the crystal-clear waters, we could see bright red starfish clinging to rocks. At one point our guide reached down and pulled out an enormous sunflower starfish, a species that has 24 arms. The kayaking excursion provided an unforgettable and up-close look at what lives just beneath the water's surface.

The next day, as we traveled north alongside Chichagof Island, one special wildlife sighting resonated with even our exploration leaders: We had come upon a pod of orcas, the first glimpse of orcas for the Cruise West fleet that season.

In groups of up to 10, they surrounded the Endeavour, their narrow black dorsal fins rising above and below the sea's surface in an elegant water ballet. This was likely a resident pod of orcas, said Makela, which can number anywhere from three to 40 members. Though they also are called killer whales, they are the largest members of the dolphin family. The moniker "killer whale" is thought to derive from "killer of whales," as orcas are known to hunt whales.

Soon otters were spotted from the main observation deck, just off the starboard side, and Makela cautioned us to keep our voices low to avoid spooking them. Floating on their backs with just heads and paws jutting out of the water, they made a comical sight, calmly eyeing us until we moved on.

Day five brought us to Elfin Cove, where we had a chance to see what life is like in a small Alaskan community that is well off the beaten tourist path. There are no roads in or out of Elfin Cove, which is tucked in a protected inlet on the north coast of Chichagof Island. Residents and visitors come and go by boat or floatplane. Before disembarking, we got a preview of what to expect from longtime Elfin Cove resident Mary Jo Lord-Wild, who came aboard for an informal talk.

Elfin Cove's population swells to 250 residents in summer but dwindles significantly during colder months. Last winter, only 18 souls stayed behind, said Lord-Wild. There is no local government; rather, a system of volunteerism keeps the community going, she said. Telephone service didn't arrive until the mid-1980s.

Founded in 1935, the town relies on the sea for its existence. "Commercial fishing remains the underpinning of our economy, our lifestyle and, often, our world view," said Lord-Wild. Avid anglers can stay at one of eight sportfishing lodges here.

Fishing vessels bob in Elfin Cove's small harbor, and boardwalks connect all parts of the peaceful town. For the visitor, there is a general store, a couple of bars and a handful of small shops. The local museum offers an eclectic collection of Elfin Cove memorabilia. There's the record player once used for community get-togethers, a couple of child-size desks from the old one-room schoolhouse, and the World War II field radio that once served as the town's main communication line.

All onboard talks from the exploration leaders and guests such as Lord-Wild took place in the Explorer Lounge at the front of the ship. It holds a small bar, a library and cozy groupings of chairs and sofas. This is where we gathered for the early risers' continental breakfast, for afternoon coffee or tea and for evening cocktails. Large picture windows line the lounge, which opens onto the main viewing deck at the ship's bow. For many passengers, the lounge was the preferred spot to read a novel, work on a knitting or needlework project, write in a journal or chat with new friends.

The majority of travelers on this sailing were in their 50s and 60s. There were many couples, one family with two college-age kids, and a good number of fun-loving travelers from Australia and New Zealand. Mostly they were a well-read, curious, witty and playful group, all looked after by an enthusiastic, all-American crew of 28 Cruise West employees.

Cruise West advocates a very casual onboard atmosphere. During my sailing, no photo ID cards were issued upon embarkation, and no credit cards were required to open shipboard accounts. There is never a need to dress up for dinner, which is served at one set time each evening, with open seating.

The comfortable cabins are equipped with bathrooms, TV monitors and VCRs, and ample storage space. All have sea views, and high-powered binoculars are provided in each room for the duration of the trip. I soon learned to carry my binoculars everywhere I went, so as not to miss any sightings of a bear on shore or a nearby whale.

The last two days aboard Endeavour highlighted Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, starting in Bartlett Cove, home to Glacier Bay Lodge and the park's visitors center. Here, park ranger David Sholar accompanied us as we walked the one-mile Forest Loop Trail, which leads from the beach through stands of spruce and hemlock. Vivid green spring growth blanketed the forest, and Sholar pointed out chocolate lilies, baneberry, cow parsnip and young blueberry bushes. He showed us where moose had stripped the bark from alder trees, and what he called a "culturally modified tree," where someone had carved a native depiction of an eagle into the trunk. Others who followed the longer Bartlett River Trail returned with reports of seeing a porcupine and black bear cubs.

One morning while cruising in Glacier Bay, we awoke at the face of Margerie Glacier, which stretches across the head of Tarr Inlet. A mile wide and 250 feet high, the glacier is an ethereal sight, a thick wall of powder blue and white ice. From the decks we could hear the crackle of a calving, and we watched chunks of ice slide off the face and into the water below.

As Endeavour made its way back down the inlet, our exploration leaders alerted us to another wildlife encounter. About 100 feet away, three brown bears foraged in the brush that clung to a steep mountainside. Sporting thick, cocoa-colored coats, they moved slowly among the rocks and nosed patches of grass for food.

That afternoon, we would head through the West Arm of Glacier Bay, an area rich in avian life. The best sightings would be at the Marble Islands, designated for the protection of nesting birds, and park ranger Sholar was on board to give us a crash course in bird-watching. If we wanted to spot the orange-billed black oystercatcher, for example, look for "a crow with a 'carrot' in its mouth," he said.

At the Marbles we saw scores of kittiwakes, pelagic cormorants and glaucous-winged gulls. The crowd favorites, though, were the tufted puffins, almost cartoonlike with their distinct black-and-white markings, squat bodies and broad orange beaks. A colony of raucous sea lions also resides here.

Late one evening while the ship was anchored off Bartlett Cove in Glacier Bay National Park, I sat in front of my cabin window and scanned the water through a pair of binoculars. Though it was close to 11 p.m., it was just starting to darken -- we were experiencing Alaska's long summer daylight hours. Amid the silvery ripples I spotted the silhouette of a lone sea lion swimming near a small boat. He dove in and out of the water, first flinging his body one way, then the other. It looked like he was having a grand time.

It was one of those "quiet moments" that exploration leader Shay Makela had promised us on the first day of our cruise. I watched him for a good 15 minutes and was reminded of something said earlier that day by park ranger Marylou Blakeslee, an animated speaker who talked to Cruise West guests during a private presentation at Glacier Bay Lodge. She aptly summed up the privilege of exploring Alaska on such an intimate level: "It just feels good to watch a wild animal do what it does."

Sailing With Cruise West

In summer 2008, Cruise West offers " Alaska's Whales and Wilderness" aboard its 84-guest Spirit of Discovery and 78-guest Spirit of Alaska. One overnight in a Juneau hotel is included.

Meanwhile, the Spirit of Endeavour will sail seven-night Inside Passage cruises between Juneau and Ketchikan, alternating departure ports weekly. Passengers spend one night in a Juneau hotel.

Cruise West also brings its up-close style of cruising to California's wine country, the Columbia and Snake rivers in the Pacific Northwest, the Canadian province of British Columbia, Mexico's Sea of Cortez, Central America, the South Pacific and Asia.